A Wine Lover’s Journey Through North East Sardinia
In this land of beauty, the knowing traveller who seeks more than mere wine-tasting will find a real adventure in the centuries of viticultural culture to be had in north-eastern Sardinia – an adventure of celebration in which each glass is a tale of land, custom and indomitable spirit of the island.
The Gallura Terroir: Where Excellence Produces Roots
In the Gallura region, which measures Budoni with its typical landscape, is produced Sardinia’s only DOCG wine – Vermentino di Gallura – which assurance alone is of great worth as to the high quality the rugged country gives birth to.
There it is the ventilated hills and the mineral carboniferous ground soils that make better situation for viticulture, and it is the constant winds of the maestrale that sweep across the vineyards which keep the vines naturally protected and that concentrate the qualities of the grape in each eye.
The territory offers its peculiars micro-climates which make for it a very peculiar suny warmth and the winds of the sea, that blow for it too, and the somewhat limited amounts of rain that present themselves to the soil, imparting to Vermentino the very characteristics that mark it, its gleaning straw-yellow body, and that great lightness in colour, with peculiarities of bloom and green which recall the waters of the island, and a taste that marks the reader, by its balance of notable acidity, and by that sharpness which shadows it so gracefully.
The wines of Vermentino captivate the essence of region in each draught taken from the glass, for in each sip the traveller recalls the wild beauty of north-eastern Sardinia.
An Experts Introduction to Sardinian Wine-producing
The starting of a carefully considered wineries experience of Gallura, is that it is the act of expert nurture by its local wine-producers, who have been born and educated with the locally known conditions of its native viticultural customs. It is these well-informed guides who will explain to you the ancient methods of wine-making practised on the island and how these have been adapted to modern needs in producing wines of beauty and character. The “excursion” usually starts from the vineyard itself, where rows of Vermentino vines line fields in sun-kissed slopes. It is here that you learn how the soil, consisting of granite—known locally as “stazzu”—helps to give the wine its special mineral touch, and you learn the advantage of the position of the vineyards, which naturally receive all the necessary light of the sun, while also getting the benefit of the sea breeze, which moderates the heat of the sun. From this you get an education in terroir which makes intelligent wine appreciation possible.
You make the next transition from vineyard to the cantina, and what you then see is the individual workman at each stage of the wine-making process. It is in cool cellars that one finds the great stainless steel vats which preserve the delicate loveliness in the sapor of the Vermentino, those charmful characteristics of a bouquet of white flowers with a breath of Mediterranean herbs and citrus, which is really the essence of this variety, while with the stronger variety known as Cannonau the traditional method of vatting the grapes in wood gives a greater individuality and at the same time preserves the method handed down from father to son by the many generations of Sardinian vignerons.
The Noble Grape Varieties of Sardinia.
Vermentino di Gallura is the great star of the viticulture of the north-east of the island. This semi-aromatic white grape finds its best conditions of growth in Gallura, and from it come wines of great distinction, which achieve a happy combination of elegance and freshness. The wine is characterised by an aromatic bouquet of apple blossom, acacia and a trace of almond, while on the palate our Vermentino di Gallura wine is at once delicate and persistent—an ideal partner for the wonderful fish and light Mediterranean dishes of the region.
Another grape variety to which Sardinia owes her fame is Cannonau, the predominating red grape variety of the island. Recent archaeological discoveries have revealed that this noble vine has lived on the island for more than three millennia, and consequently it may be one of the oldest cultivated grapes in the world. The wines of Cannonau are renowned for their robust structure, velvety tannins and complex aromatic bouquet, notes of red fruits, wild herbs and fragrant Mediterranean macchia mingling with hints of spice and leather. These wines are redolent of the rugged interior wilds of Sardinia, where ancient traditions are still an important part of daily life.
It is interesting to note that Cannonau has recently earned great publicity for its connection with the remarkable longevity of the Sardinian people. The high polyphenol and antioxidant content of the wine has been the subject of research into Sardinia’s notable combination of centenarians, a justification of the healthy features of both grape and the traditional Sardinian lifestyle.
A Symphony of Flavours: The Tasting Experience
After all, the tasting is the culmination of any winery visit, a carefully achieved exploration of the greatest labels of Sardinia accompanied by artisanal local produce. This is where the wine becomes more than a beverage and a door is opened to the culture and gastronomy of Sardinia.
An example of a classic match is furnished by Vermentino di Gallura and thin slices of delicate pecorino sardo, the island’s famous sheep’s cheese, fresh and semi-mature. The wine’s crisp acidity and mineral finish make counterpoints to the creaminess and richness of the cheese, whilst the delicate floral note found in Vermentino suggests the complex range of flavours in the pecorino. Local olive oils pressed from the ancient groves dispersed on hillside forests contribute the final note of the rolling flavour. Spicy and herbaceous, they augment the experience.
With the Cannonau, however, the flavours have increased in strength. Aged Fiore Sardo, a harder, more pungent pecorino, fits in beautifully with the structure of the wine, while slices of prosciutto di cinghiale (wild boar) and various artisanal cured meats reinforce the flavours which the wine presents. These flavours are the result of centuries of culinary knowledge, as the producers of the island have instinctively known from experience what flavours will mingle and coalesce in the mouth.
A number of estates carry this experience yet further with their drinking breads of the island, pane carasau, the crisp, paper-thin wayside pao, or pane frattau, with honey of the island, fruits and fruits in conserves, as well as seasonal vegetables, which denote the season. Each element is selected with care, in view of the fact that not individual merits are to be considered, but also the closeness of the food atmosphere in the island, as wine, cheese and cured meats form an inseparable trinity.
A Genuine Relation to the Island’s Traditions
Beyond the incomparable wines and there are still these evanescent wines, things of the nature of experiences, the experience, of contact with humanity, that is so rare in this civilized world of ours. The family estates invite people into the homes, where generations have gathered, hearing the tales of the times of the harvest, the variations of vintage, and of the great story of the Sardinian with soil.
These splendid experiences are more easily obtainable than is generally the case. The cordial and thoughtful people of ENAJA negotiate for an opportunity with the estates and arrange these experiences, carefully selecting the estates to be approached for their true hospitality and traditional usage. They will arrange visits to the old cantinas, hidden in the valleys, and personal works of art in the shape of wine tastings with small producers who restrict access to the general public. Every experience arranged will be a reflection of the great charm of the wine of the culture of the north east of Sardinia.
To the person who wishes to aquaint himself intimately with the traditions of winemaking in Sardinia, the part of Budoni and Gallura is without doubt, the most wonderful journey possible.
Here, indeed, among ancient vines, and ancient traditions, wine is something much more than a fluid, being but another expression of land, history and of the great tradition of hospitality in Sardinia. Book your stay today!
